In conversation with COVER, Viviana Losacco of Vilos Studio discusses her nature-inspired textile practice, working with reclaimed materials and creating tactile landscapes that explore the connection between ecology, memory and touch

Close-up of a textured surface in purple and orange with yellow specks and purple knobby clusters.
Opuntia
Vilos Studio

Your work draws heavily on natural systems, from fungal networks and lichens to Mediterranean flora. How do you translate these ecological processes into abstract, tactile landscapes? 

What draws me to nature is the intelligence behind its forms. I’m fascinated by the way organisms grow, adapt, connect and transform. Understanding these processes is where every project begins. 

Whenever I start a new project, I spend a long time observing my subject. I look at dozens of images, trying to understand it beyond its appearance. I’m interested in how a plant grows, how it changes over time, how it occupies space and what gives it its unique presence. I’m searching for its character rather than its shape. 

From there, I begin sketching. The final piece isn’t a representation of a flower, a lichen or a landscape, but an interpretation of how I experienced it. I don’t want people to recognise a specific place immediately. I want them to feel something that reminds them of it. 

I think this has always been my way of seeing the world. Even when I worked in fashion, I wasn’t copying nature—I was trying to extract its identity. My textiles become landscapes where perception is translated into texture, relief and material. They ask what nature might feel like if we experienced it through memory or a dream rather than through sight alone. .

Pile of fuzzy green and purple moss-textured cushions arranged in a mound on a beige background
Caper
Vilos Studio

You describe your practice as a â€˜Material Soul—Circular Practice’, using industrial wool remnants within a domestic-loop economy. How does working with reclaimed materials influence the forms, colours and textures you create? Does the material ever dictate the final piece? 

The idea always comes first, but the material definitely has a voice. I mainly work with industrial wool remnants alongside carefully selected new yarns, trying whenever possible to keep a balance between reclaimed and new materials. For me, circularity isn’t only about sustainability. It’s also about accepting that every material already has its own history, limitations and possibilities. 

After developing the composition through sketches, I begin matching materials to the atmosphere I’m trying to create. Some ideas need a flatter, more graphic surface, while others require something softer, grainier or almost velvety. Different yarns allow me to express those subtle differences. 

Working with reclaimed materials also means embracing unpredictability. Sometimes I don’t have enough of a particular yarn, or I discover that a texture behaves differently once it’s tufted. In those moments I don’t see the material as something resisting me, but as something I collaborate with. I might adjust a colour transition or slightly rethink part of the composition, always trying to stay as close as possible to the feeling that inspired the work in the first place. The finished piece often becomes something neither the material nor I could have achieved alone. 

Rounded moss-covered spheres in bright green with dark purple edging arranged along a stone path with frayed rope remnants nearby
Detail of Caper
Vilos Studio

Many of your pieces invite touch through varying pile heights, relief tufting and sculptural elements. What role does haptic experience play in your work, and do you think contemporary textiles need to engage us beyond the visual? 

Touch is at the heart of my practice. We live in a culture where we’re encouraged to look at things but rarely to touch them. Textiles are different. They naturally invite physical interaction, and I think that’s one of their greatest strengths. 

I use different pile heights, sculptural reliefs and contrasting textures because they allow people to experience a work with their whole body rather than only through their eyes. Our hands can recognise rhythm, softness, resistance and temperature before we even begin analysing what we’re looking at. That kind of sensory connection feels incredibly important to me. 

I believe contemporary textiles have the potential to reconnect us with materiality in an increasingly digital world. Touch creates a slower and more intimate way of experiencing an artwork. For me, that’s something worth preserving and continuing to explore. 

Colorful, textured rug shaped like a flower lying on a rough concrete surface.
Pistillo
Vilos Studio

Projects such as Wundernetz and Zeitenwende explore themes of ecological vulnerability and regeneration. How do you communicate urgent environmental issues while still creating objects of beauty and comfort? 

I’ve never wanted my work to tell people what to think. There is already so much information about climate change and ecological loss that we risk becoming overwhelmed by it. 

Instead, I’m interested in creating an emotional connection. Beauty can make people slow down. Comfort can make them stay. Once they spend time with a piece, they begin noticing its layers, its textures and the natural processes that inspired it. I think that kind of quiet attention can sometimes be more powerful than a direct message. 

Nature itself is full of contradictions. It can be fragile and resilient, delicate and incredibly strong at the same time. Projects like Wundernetz and Zeitenwende are my way of reflecting that complexity. Rather than illustrating environmental issues, I want to create spaces where people can sense both vulnerability and hope. 

Colorful shaggy rugs draped over a tree trunk in a wooded area, creating a bright, layered textile display on the ground and branches.
Zeitenwende
Vilos Studio

Your background spans fashion, tailoring and textile design. How have those disciplines shaped your approach to rug-making, and where do you see your practice evolving next? 

Each discipline has shaped a different part of the way I work. Tailoring taught me precision and respect for craftsmanship. Fashion taught me how materials can communicate emotion and identity. Textile design encouraged me to think about surfaces as something spatial and immersive rather than simply decorative. 

Tufting brought all of these experiences together. It gave me the freedom to work on a larger scale and to create objects that exist somewhere between artwork, design object and landscape. 

Looking ahead, I’d love to work on larger, more ambitious projects in collaboration with architects, designers and clients. I can imagine creating textile installations, environments for exhibitions or fashion presentations, or projects that transform entire spaces rather than occupying a single wall or floor. 

At the same time, I’m curious to explore the therapeutic potential of tactile experiences through collaborations with art therapy practices. Whatever direction my work takes, I want to remain at the intersection of art and design, continuing to create pieces that invite people not only to observe the world, but to experience it through material, touch and presence. 

You can read more about Viviana Locasso and Vilos Studio in our upcoming issue, COVER 84.

Q&A by Libbi Kettle

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